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Andrew 12-05-2004 08:04:00 142.165.215.139 11873 Report to Moderator	I was serviceing the rear end in my mothers 67 mustang when i noticed the rear frame rails were rusted like a coffee Crisp waffer bar. on good bump i bet they woudl rip out! can you buy replacement rails to weld in? if you can is it alot of work? [Reply]  [No Email]
John in nebraska 12-06-2004 07:53:25 209.74.225.176 11888 Report to Moderator	Re: 1967 Mustang in reply to Andrew, 12-05-2004 08:04:00   Is it a lot of work? yes it is, may mean removing the entire rear end with springs. If there is severe rust here, one should inspect the rest of the car very carefully, especially anywhere the undercoating is heavy, as that in no way insures it isn't going to rust underneath the rustproofing. Do you have access to a wire welder, four inch grinder, drill, jack stands, floor jack? Be a mighty long weekend project for someone thats done it already. john in nebraska   [Reply]  [No Email]
Andrew 12-11-2004 22:33:52 69.11.45.168 11915 Report to Moderator	Re: Re: 1967 Mustang in reply to John in nebraska, 12-06-2004 07:53:25   I have a tool box full of goodies 80 grand worth of snap-off and mac tools i have very air tool you can get except a air nibbler i do have a stick welder but i was looking at a mig when i get to do this frame rail thing. CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGHT TOOLS!! LOL   [Reply]  [No Email]
John M 12-19-2004 13:22:44 216.251.171.227 11971 Report to Moderator	Re: Re: Re: 1967 Mustang in reply to Andrew, 12-11-2004 22:33:52   I did exactly what you are thinking of doing, and I did mine with a stick welder to boot. I assume you plan to keep the car for a long time? If so, your best bet is use your Snap-On spot weld cutter and start up at the torque boxes, when you remove the rear seat, and the sound insulation, you will see the spot welds very clearly. AS for fabricating versus buying off the shelf- fabricate your own as the off the shelf type are usually far too overpriced for the little actual work they did to produce them- they were likely intended for racing, where the gas tank mount and sheet metal of note are cut out entirely. When You fabricate yours, you should be able to do an excellent job with 2"x3" 16 guage tubing, and a 16 guage strip about 5 inches wide welded on the top of the tubing so you can contour that metal to the slight gaps you will encounter of the Mustang sheet metal- even when each rail is composed of about 7 pieces if I recall correctly. This allows for your replacements to follow the original location and placements with ease. You will also need about 4 feet of 2"x2" tubing. Take a lot of measurements tot eh bolt holes where the shock absorbers bolt to the body and use those as benchmarks for your other measurements because the rails are not perfectly flat, they offset inward about 7 inches from rear to front of rails. Be aware that the dogleg ahead of the rear wheel is a common location for rust penetration as are the floor boards, and the rocker panels- these are all part of the body structure that keeps the car semirigid- the car body will flex a lot as that was how the unibody cars were. There are a lot of patch panels out there, and they usually fit pretty good. The only issue is if math and geometry are not your strong suits, expect to make a number of extra cuts because there are a number of compound cuts and the first go may not be close. Expect to use up about 22 feet of tubing- and tack the parts together for fit-up before welding any of it.   [Reply]  [No Email]
Big Jim 12-06-2004 01:36:18 56.0.84.24 11887 Report to Moderator	Re: 1967 Mustang in reply to Andrew, 12-05-2004 08:04:00   You can pretty much buy enough new Mustang parts to build you a completely new car. Replacements for anything that rusts or was weak originally are common. A little work with Google should turn up a number of suppliers. One caution: I've heard from a number of guys that do Mustangs that it is best to pay the extra and get US made parts. They usually fit much better.   [Reply]  [No Email]
the tractor vet 12-05-2004 09:15:34 4.124.74.213 11874 Report to Moderator	Re: 1967 Mustang in reply to Andrew, 12-05-2004 08:04:00   With all the muskrats being restored i would bet that they are and i would have to say that it would take some doing and if the rest of the car is in good shape then it would be worthe it . My wife would love to have a mustang convertable like the one i got her when we first started dating , i was a parts manager at a vary large Chry. Ply. Dealership and we got this 67 mustang in on trade and it was shell we say well used and needed a lot of work it had a 302 4bbl. 4 speed . with a light cam and headers the exhust system was shot the brakes were gone the clutch was out the motor mounts were busted the u/bolts on the rear end were loose no e/ brake and needed a major tune up so i stole it for 350 bucks and took it home and in a weekend fixed everything . she loved it but her mother hated it as it had a Hurst scynro lock shifter with a rev. lockout and her mother had a hard time with it and after a couple months made her sell it and buy a fair lane , i am still mad at my motherinlaw .   [Reply]  [No Email]
Andrew 12-05-2004 11:30:34 142.165.215.139 11875 Report to Moderator	Re: Re: 1967 Mustang in reply to the tractor vet, 12-05-2004 09:15:34   My father al ready put in new floor pann and tared the snot out of it he coated the tar 1/8" thick LOL and its still like new nice and soft not a cracked in it. This mustang was different the box on the passenger that suports the front corner was never installed so at the factory must have been a long weekend and they forgot to do it. so dad welded that in front and rear fenders are new has a 1967 289 2bbl out of a comet origenally had a 200 six banger the 289 is all origenal except dad through in a set of main and con brg in still std size. runs good has great compression just needs a new carb. All we have to do is install new leave springs and add the V8 engine style coils on the front then the rear frame rails and the bottome of that car is close to new. needs a paint job the paint is peeling so i was talkign dad into sandign it down to bare metal and priming it then sending it out to a body shop to get a nice new coat of candy apple red :)... this car has had alot of rear end trouble after we put the 289 in it. that 289 eats that rear end like its made from tin foil LOL. dont even have to floor it hard to do that. hahaha.   [Reply]  [No Email]
the tractor vet 12-06-2004 13:22:54 4.124.89.173 11889 Report to Moderator	Re: Re: Re: 1967 Mustang in reply to Andrew, 12-05-2004 11:30:34   It still have the small rear that came with the six it is no wounder You should have atleast and 8 inch in there and a 9 would be a bunch better. . And then a 289 4bbl manifold and a 600 cfm holley with vac . secondarys a C9OZ 6250 C cam and shim the valve springs .020 and a set of headers a 271 hp. dual point dist. and hang on . Did a bunch up like that back in the GOOD OLD DAYS when a car would darn near get out of it's shadow and for 2500 bucks you could buy a 13 second street machine new.   [Reply]  [No Email]
John M. 12-19-2004 13:29:17 216.251.171.227 11973 Report to Moderator	Re: Re: Re: Re: 1967 Mustang in reply to the tractor vet, 12-06-2004 13:22:54   If the wheels are held on with four lug nuts, find a scrapped V8 Maverick or Comet from the seventies if you only have a budget for used/non mustang parts. The steering parts are just a little bit heavier between the v8 and the 6's. That 6.5 inch or 7 inch rear end is just not up for any abuse, even with the "no window types".   [Reply]  [No Email]